Iranian tea may not be familiar to many tea enthusiasts, often surprising people when they learn about it. Even more surprising is the revelation that Iran has been trading tea with Russia and other countries for many years. The reason for this is that Iranian tea is primarily used in blends with herbs or fruits, and producers seldom label it as Iranian tea. Nevertheless, the unique story and conditions surrounding the development of tea culture in Iran deserve to be shared.
The journal “Coffee and Tea in Russia” was delighted to interview Hassan Afshari, the National TMC Coordinator, judge, and tea specialist who possesses extensive knowledge Kashef Al-Saltaneh about Iranian tea.
- Hassan, before discussing the current situation with tea in Iran, let’s look at its history a bit. How old is tea culture in Iran, and which country first introduced tea to Iran?
Hassan: Just like me, Iran primarily consumed coffee before shifting to tea. In the 17th century, when importing coffee became challenging, the government opted to import tea from China. So, approximately 400 years ago, we first sipped Chinese tea. Later, Iran switched to Indian tea, and then came to a decision to cultivate and produce its own tea but it took time. Kashef al-Saltaneh, often referred to as the father of Iranian tea, was dispatched by the Iranian government to India to learn the secrets of tea cultivation and production. Disguising himself as a French trader, it took him four years to acquire substantial knowledge. He returned with 4000 varieties of Assam tea plants, four boxes of tea seeds, and four boxes of spices. Upon his return, he discovered that tea could be cultivated in Lahijan. Additionally, Chinese influence played a significant role. During one of Kashef al-Saltaneh’s visits to China, he brought back Chinese cultivars and tea experts who changed their religion, got married and trained numerous Iranians in the art of tea. Thus, the influences of India and China, as well as the Russian samovar tradition, have greatly shaped Iran’s tea culture. Even the cultivars that we have now are hybrids of Indian and Chinese cultivars. And in every house one can find a samovar.
But also as our people travel a lot and absorb other traditions they are mixed with traditional way to drink tea and it creates the variety of Iranian tea culture.
- Actually, Iran still maintains trade relations with these three countries when it comes to tea. Surprisingly, Iran sells more tea than it produces. How is this possible?
Hassan: To comprehend this, let me provide some insights into our production, export, and import figures. In 2018, Iran produced 25,366 tons of tea, and by 2023, production had increased by 30% to 33,595 tons due to improved weather conditions. Iran has 178 tea factories with 55,000 farmers, primarily located in the provinces of Gilan and Mazandaran, where tea is cultivated at elevations ranging from 300 to 500 meters above sea level. Due to our significant consumption, averaging 1.7 kilograms per capita annually, making Iran the fourth-largest tea-consuming country globally, we still need to import tea, constituting around 80% of our consumption, mainly from Sri Lanka, India, and Kenya, depending on whether it is loose tea or tea bags. However, we also export tea, with Turkey being our primary market, accounting for 25% of all exports. Other popular export destinations include Russia, Armenia, Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan, and Belarus. The fact that Iran sells more tea than it produces is explained by the fact that we have tea storage under government control which can be used in case we have orders for low quality tea.
- The tea trading process in Iran seems quite intricate. Could you elaborate on the procedures involved?
Hassan: Tea trading in Iran falls under the purview of the Ministry of Agriculture, the Chamber of Commerce, and the Ministry of Trade. For instance, if someone in Iran wishes to import tea from Sri Lanka, they must first obtain a pro forma invoice, register it with the trading department, secure credit from the central bank, transfer funds to Dubai, and then from Dubai money go to Sri Lanka and then one has to subsequently facilitate the tea’s transit from Sri Lanka to Dubai and then to Iran. Direct transactions or transportation routes are not permitted, necessitating all transactions to go through Dubai’s Jebel Ali port.
- Does the same process apply to trade with China, which is increasingly entering the tea market?
Hassan: Yes, the process remains the same for trade with China, also routed through Dubai. Chinese teas and tea culture have gained popularity in Iran, particularly after the introduction of the Tea Masters Cup (TMC), which introduced the Gongfu tea culture.
- So, does this mean Iranians increase drinking specialty teas? Additionally, besides black tea, what other types of tea are consumed in Iran?
Hassan: While 95% of the tea consumed in Iran is black tea, there is a growing interest in specialty teas, which comprise green, white, yellow, black, and oolong varieties. Residents of western Iran, in particular, favor high-quality Sri Lankan teas for their exceptional taste and aroma. Specialty teas began appearing in the Iranian market about 10-15 years ago but were not initially widespread. The first tea training sessions occurred six years ago when Denis Shumakov visited Iran, conducting numerous tea classes. Subsequently, I received further training in China and Russia, particularly in Gongfu tea culture, which I have since shared with others in Iran. Specialty teas are gaining popularity, and I regularly provide consultancy services to companies involved in importing Chinese teas and participate in various tea expos.
- It seems like you’re spearheading the development of specialty tea culture in Iran. Do you conduct training sessions with other tea enthusiasts?
Hassan: Most of my students are either baristas or tea importers seeking to enhance their knowledge of tea brewing, grading, and mixing. I have also translated a book on tea by Sharyn Johnson, which has proven invaluable to my students. We organize tea tours to factories, introducing participants to tea production processes, which often offer novel insights. Many Iranians are surprised by the differences between teas of various origins.
- So, the Tea Masters Cup plays a crucial role in fostering tea culture in Iran. How popular are the different TMC categories among participants?
Hassan: Absolutely. We conduct tea mixology, tasting, and brewing sessions nationwide, organized into six zones culminating in a national competition. However, the international TMC date remains uncertain, delaying our national event. In terms of popularity, most participants are drawn to tea mixology, followed by tasting and brewing. Currently, around ten individuals from different companies provide tea training. While other trainers do not issue certificates in tea education, the Iranian TMC Association does. Consequently, those seeking tea education often turn to us for training. Some individuals opt for online tea courses and subsequently impart their knowledge to fellow tea lovers.
– So we hope to see the results of spreading tea culture at the coming National TMC and then International one.
